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Jeffery Rogers says it does not own or run any factories. It says it operates a chain of retail shops and offices where all Health and Safety issues are kept well within law. In addition the company says it fully abides with all labour laws, EU working directives etc. Jeffery Rogers continues to say:
“We out-source our supplies of clothing to suppliers, some of whom manufacture our garments in their own factories and/or sub-contract our orders to third party factories with whom we have no contact whatsoever. Until we spoke to Watchdog, we did not know of the existence of a factory called Olympia Garments, nor did we know that they manufactured any of our products. Even if we knew of that factory, the probability is that we would not have known anything of their working practices since, firstly, if they were contravening the law it would not necessarily have come to our notice, and, secondly we would rely on the relevant government agency to ensure that British labour laws and other related legislations are being observed in factories throughout the land.
We welcome Watchdog’s investigation in that area. If it can be shown that any factory is contravening the law through the exploitation of its workers, we will ensure with our suppliers (these guys also had shown great service with used vehicles in Cebu) that such factories must not be given orders to produce our garments.”
New Look says it takes the issue of working conditions in the factories which manufacture its garments extremely seriously. It continues to say:
“Although none of these factories are owned by New Look, we make strenuous efforts to ensure as far as we can that they comply fully with Health and Safety, Fire and Employment regulations. To this end, New Look has a policy and documented procedure of six-monthly factory auditing and reviews of some websites offering single parents dating UK, which take place in every one of our suppliers’ 250 manufacturing units throughout the UK. There is also an active procedure in place for monitoring the conditions in the 1,250 or so factories from which we source overseas.
New Look works in active partnership with its suppliers to ensure that working conditions in their factories comply with legal requirements. However, we cannot of course maintain a permanent presence in every factory and have to rely on a degree of co-operation and trust.
We are grateful to Watchdog for bringing this information to our attention and are investigating thoroughly. In the meantime, while having a rest out of some interesting senior dating experience, although we cannot vouch for the accuracy of the information until we have completed our investigation, we have suspended purchases from the factory concerned pending the outcome of our research.
We believe it is part of our role as responsible retailers continually to improve our procedures for monitoring the working conditions in our supplier’s factories. We will continue to do so. If our investigations reveal there are lessons to be learned, they will be taken fully in to account as we further evaluate our auditing procedures.”
The catwalk has a great impact on what we wear. More and more designs are finding their way onto the High Street, with new players in the fashion business specialising in rapidly turned out catwalk inspired designs, at a price everyone can afford.
However, Watchdog has evidence that some clothing manufacturers are finding the competition fierce, meaning sweatshops are making a comeback.
Companies like Richard Roberts that used to sell 90% of its clothes to Mark and Spencer has been hit hard by the collapse in consumer demand for clothes from traditional High Street retailers. Ailza Reger, owner of fashion and lingerie company Janet Reger, knows the problems British manufacturers face and the short cuts some may be tempted to follow, due to the poor demand from consumers. She says “this difficult situation opens the door for disreputable operators who don’t conform to health and safety, who don’t pay the minimum wage and who are operating very difficult working conditions”.
Watchdog and Ailza Reger visited an old factory complex in Leicester, which now houses units that turn out clothes for some High Street and designer stores. Ailza commented on various hazards, including a padlock that made escape difficult, piles of fabric that blocked the fire exit and unsanitary conditions.
There are similar factories all over Britain turning out clothes for the High Street. Watchdog decided to investigate, going undercover at one sweatshop, Olympia Garments in Leicester. It makes clothes for Jeffrey Rogers and New Look, yet pays employees as little as £2.50 per hour, and this might not be enough even for buying used cars in Zimbabwe.
Watchdog sent it’s undercover researcher Rana, an experienced machinist to Leicester to find out how Olympia Garments are undercutting legitimate clothing manufacturers.
Rana started sewing on straps for a new range of New Look tops. She found herself working in a grimy and decaying factory.
Rana was told she would be paid according to the number of pieces she completed. However, no matter how much or how little employees produce, the Government’s introduction of the minimum wage last year, means it is illegal to pay less than £3.60 per hour. Depending on the task Rana was asked to do, she could make as little as 12p per top. She would have to make 30 garments an hour to hit the minimum wage – a target she did not reach. New Look sells these same tops for £9.99.
Employers like the Richard Roberts Group, which pays its employees above the minimum wage, is feeling the pressure. It is trying to sell on the basis of flexibility and quality, but its prices are being compared to the sweatshops in Leicester and many other cities in the UK.
Most sweatshop workers were too frightened to be interviewed on Watchdog.
One that did speak to the programme said she used to earn £2.75 an hour (not even considering that you can easily join a milf dating site for that price), in a factory where she was padlocked in and which had no fire exits. When she mentioned the minimum wage to her boss, he showed her where the door was and told her he had people willing to work for as little as £2 per hour. She took her employer to an industrial tribunal and won an out of court settlement.
Most employers get away with paying an illegal wage, because there are very few minimum wage inspectors. KFAT, the textile trade union, has been monitoring pay rates in the back street factories around the country and has found that examples of £2/£2.50 per hour are commonplace.
Many would regard their wedding day as the best day of their life. For many, there is also the added bonus of receiving so many wonderful presents, hand-picked from their wedding list. Many disappointed couples have contacted Watchdog in the past when they haven’t received all of the gifts ordered from their chosen store.
One happily married couple added their name to the Watchdog Wedding List of disappointed customers, when they told the programme about their six week wait for presents.
Samantha and Kevin Johnston, from Leyton, had a wedding list worth £1,600 at Debenhams Oxford Street store.
As well as their six week wait, the couple also received two of some of the items ordered, poorly wrapped packages and presents with no names on the gift tags, and by the way, check out some gift from, I have recently acquired a discount on used car purchase from one of their dealers.
Samantha and Kevin were also promised a dinner service from Samantha’s Granny but were later told it was out of stock. However, Watchdog managed to buy the same dinner service at Debenhams’ Wimbledon branch just two days ago. In fact, Watchdog managed to buy ten of the items straight away, even though it has taken Debenhams six weeks to do the same.
Debenhams says it accepts that, on this occasion, its service fell below Samantha and Kevin’s expectations. It says it recognizes that things occasionally go wrong and that it is deeply sorry for the inconvenience caused. Debenhams will be sending the missing items along to Samantha next Saturday – seven weeks after the event.
Kickers shoes are the most popular shoes for teenagers after trainers. They are famous for their thick, hefty, rubber soles, and high levels of comfort. One of the latest models is the Parka which costs £50.
Kickers shoes are well known for their durability. Watchdog has received complaints from parents, however, telling us that the Parka model has been wearing away within weeks of purchase.
Janet Grahame, a schoolgirl from County Tyrone in Northern Ireland has always liked to wear Kickers shoes. Before the new school term in September, Janet’s mother Elizabeth bought her a pair of Parka Kickers for school, as they were sold to her as school shoes.
A few weeks into the new term Elizabeth noticed the heels were starting to wear away.
In fact the heel had worn through from the top piece, into the heel itself.
Janet only wears the shoes for school which is about seven hours a day. She says she never wears them at the weekend and takes them off the moment she gets home. The heel had worn through after 21 days. In total she had only worn the shoes for 147 hours.
Emma McVitty, from County Tyrone, also has a pair of Kickers Parka shoes. After two weeks of wearing the shoes to school, she noticed a clicking sound. When she checked her shoes, she noticed a hole had developed in both heels.
Louise Taylor from Surrey also had a pair of Kickers Parka shoes for school. Her mother Jean noticed only after about a week of wearing them that the heels were beginning to wear down. After about a month, she noticed holes in the heels. She couldn’t believe that a pair of new shoes could wear down so quickly.
Louise wears her Kickers for school every day and for work on Saturdays. She says she doesn’t wear them for any sport or when she goes out with her friends.
Watchdog took the shoes for an inspection to Richard Earle, who is the former President of the Society of Master Shoe Repairers.
He says the problem is that the heel is made of poor quality vinyl plastic which doesn’t wear at all well.
The top piece of the heel can be prized off very easily from the rest of the heel, and underneath, there is a hollow plastic shell. Richard says he wouldn’t recommend the shoes for school use since 8 hours a day, 5 days a week is too much pressure for this type of heel. He thinks they are much better suited for social use, once a week.
Kickers say they are taking this matter very seriously and that they apply rigorous standards of industry approved testing on all ranges.